Warner Family Views
Tuesday, December 06, 2016
No more "Munich komplex" for historic Prague
An oft-invaded city is now one of Europe's prime tourist destinations
“Perceptions”
by Gerry Warner
Something
funny happened to me on the way to Prague, Czech Republic. I got there all
right and all I can say is what a beautiful city it is. The medieval
architecture, cobblestone streets and soaring spires of its numerous churches will
live in my memory forever.
But my plans to take an ESL teaching course and teach
abroad fell through. The karma wasn’t
right for it and I can’t give you a better reason. But I can offer you some
valuable advice.
The twin towers of the Gothic Tyn Church loom over
Prague's Municipal Square.
|
Aside from producing some great hockey players, Prague
is home of the “Velvet Revolution,” the “Velvet Divorce” and was at one time
the centre of the Holy Roman Empire, a city drenched in history if there ever
was one. And it also boasts unique architectural treasures found nowhere else like the "astronomical clock" that looks down on the Old Town Square.
From a few scattered huts along the river Vitava,
Prague emerged as a small city in the 10th Century to rise in
prominence as the Huns and the Visigoths were busy sacking Rome. Called “The
Times of Saints and Blood,” the Prague royal family was awash in blood with
Queen Ludmila strangled by her daughter-in-law and her grandson Vaclav murdered
by his brother, but later made a saint.
The mid-1300s were the Golden Age of Medieval Prague
when the King and Emperor Charles IV made Prague the centre of the Holy Roman
Empire and started the building of the many architectural wonders that tourists
enjoy so much today like St. Vitus Cathedral overlooking the Old Town, Wenceslas
Square, named for Good King Wenceslas, the patron Saint of the Czech Republic,
and the Charles Bridge, sometimes called “the Bridge that Never Sleeps” and
lined with dozens of gnarled statues from Prague’s rich, Czechoslovakian
history.
Ancient astronomical clock where the planets orbit around the earth |
But not for long.
By the late 1930s, Nazism was goose-stepping across
Europe and Adolph Hitler’s Wehrmacht troops swallowed up Austria and
Czechoslovakia and the Western allies, consumed with appeasing Hitler, didn’t
say boo. The Munich Agreement (Peace in our Time) was the death knell for the
briefly-lived Czech Republic and to this day many Czechs have felt a “Munich komplex”
about their country’s history and its tragic betrayal by the allies, according
to a wonderful historical guide I picked up at the Prague Info Centre near one
of the many ornate bridges that span the Vitava.
Czechoslovakia re-emerged as a country again after
World War II, but quickly fell under the yoke of communism and became a stolid
satellite of Moscow. In 1968, Czechoslovakia briefly threw off its Soviet chains under president Alexander
Dubcek, who led a reformist movement that became known as the "Prague Spring." But the brief period of liberalism that began in May was crushed by August when Russian tanks rolled over Prague's historic, cobblestone streets and crushed the incipient revolution and jailed Dubcek.
A little over a decade later, I attended the Winter Olympics in Sarajevo in 1984 and was told by several experienced Europe travelers not to visit Prague because
it was depressing and the people were dour. I regret now that I heeded their
advice.
Charles Bridge and its many statues captivate tourists. |
To be honest, the heavy hand of communism can be still
felt to some degree in Prague in some of the boring Soviet era, Stalinist style
buildings, but also in a positive sense in the very cheap and efficient transit
system boasting both underground subway lines and above ground rail trams and
buses.
It’s not every country that can use the word “velvet”
to describe the revolution that saw Czechoslovakia break away from the Soviet Union in 1989 and use
the same word again to describe the amicable divorce between it and Slovakia in 1993.
By all means, consider a holiday to Prague. Good King
Wenceslas would approve.
--
30 –
Gerry
Warner is a retired journalist, who can never get enough of historic Europe.